Overall Power Solution: I wanted a "one button" power on and off solution for the cabinet that was controlled from the outside. Something easy enough for the kids and wife to use. The solution was the SmartStrip. It works like this: there is one "hot" socket. When the appliance plugged into that socket is drawing power (on), then the other sockets also turn on. When the "hot" socket has no power drawn (off), then the other sockets' power is cutoff. So, I plugged the PC into the "hot" socket, the TV, light, amplifier and USB hub power into the other switched sockets. Very simple and an excellent product.

The SmartStrip in action:

Cabinet Power: I wanted to have a detachable cable, like a PC's, to connect the Cabinet to the outlet so I could easily remove it when moving. I bought a MAL receptacle (the connector you see on the back of a PC) and cut a hole in the bottom rear of the cabinet just big enough to pop it in. I butchered a heavy duty extension cord by cutting a short piece of wire and stripping the three wires inside it and cutting the receptacle end of the cord (with a couple of inches leeway). I did some online research to find this picture, courtesy of mwerstlein, and soldered the wires appropriately to the short piece of the extension cord I cut. This guy actually built a circuit that performs the same function as the SmartStrip. For the MAL receptacle, testing for your live wire is extremely important. You need to make sure you're getting this right or you could cause some serious damage to yourself and to the wiring in your home. Once attached to the cabinet, and with the piece of wire connected, I cut off the receptacle end of the heavy duty extension cord and soldered it to the piece of wire already attached to the MAL receptacle. The reason for this whole exercise is that the hole for the MAL receptacle is too small to fit an extension cord through and a wire needs to be soldered to the MAL receptacle anyway.

Here's the outside cutout for the MAL receptacle:

Here's the finished MAL connector from the inside:

Here's the finished MAL connector from the outside:

Marquee Light: This was pretty easy. I mounted it about 16 inches behind the marquee. The light from Happ had a retractable extension cord that ran the length of the cabinet down to the power strip. I mounted one of those Bed, Bath and Beyond adhesive wire enclosures on each side inside the cabinet to keep the wires from dangling all over. I just measured the light's connection distance and drilled in two screws on the top of the cabinet to mount it.

Coin Door: The power to the coin door comes from the PC. I put a Y-adapter into the PC by attaching it to an existing Molex connector (the 4-pin power wires in the PC). Rather than butcher the power supply's cables, I thought this was the best bet. The yellow cable is a 12V cable and the black cables are grounds. I cut the yellow and one black and connected some 22 gauge wire to run them to the coin door lights. I tested the lights to determine which connectors would make them work. Once that was done, I soldered them to ensure a strong connection. I would be opening and closing the coin door quite a bit in the future, I thought, so twisting and tape was not secure enough for this usage.

PC: The PC plugged right into the SmartStrip "hot" socket. The SmartStrip is plugged into the MAL receptacle. I also have the coin door light wires coming out of the PC. I cut the two wires going to the power button in the case, stripped them about 1", and tied them to two wires running up the side of the cabinet to a Happ pushbutton (momentary) switch. I had an extra green button. I also tied the wires to the power button on the PC so I can turn on the PC either from the PC itself or from the pushbutton. Most PCs can be configured from either the BIOS of within Windows XP that when you push the Power button, the PC will Shut Down. To shut down, I hit the Escape button on the control panel to close the game, hit it again to close the front end and hit the Power button on the cabinet to power down. 1-2-3....simple. I also left the sides of the PC off to keep the PC cool.

Here's the pushbutton from the inside:

PC Fans: I put one exhaust fan on the top of the cabinet to blow out the hot air. I also put one fan blowing cooler air into the cabinet right over the Coin Door. All I did was extend the existing fan wires and connectors from the motherboard to the fans. It is simple wire cutting, tying and taping. I didn't bother to solder these.

Here's the top exhaust fan from the inside:

Also, another view of the top exhaust fan from the inside:

Here's the intake fan from the inside: